We awoke after a good 9 hrs of sleep at 4:15am. The moon was high and casting perfect light onto the Grand Teton massive that began practically out our tent door. Although the peak is close at the crow flies, getting to the route and up requires stamina, patience, skill, and a little luck. For us, this day, everything came together and the mountain allowed us passage and the privilege to stand atop.
Starting up the boulder field we hiked by the guide camp, trying to move quietly. It did not matter, we soon found out from another group of two camped close by- the guided group of 4 had left 2 hrs earlier. Together the twosome from Bozeman and us hiked up the Teepee glacier. The sun was rising off in the distance, creating enough light to see and change into crampons and harnesses.
After the little saddle of Teepee we went down a slope and around an arete into the Stettner couloir. Here the two guys zipped by as they were soloing the first pitch, whereas we roped up. Tim lead first. We ended up simul-climbing as well because the distance was too great between the anchors. A fact I learned later, which I was glad to find out after the fact.
|At the first belay station. Not too steep, but worth starting out roped for the confidence and the mind-set shift. Now begins the climb- slow and steady in the Chevy|